Category Archives: Salon Professionals

Educational tips for salon professionals

Calling All Aspiring Lash Artists

UPDATE: This class is full, please check back or drop a message to inquire about future classes!

Have you been interested in becoming an eyelash extension technician? Now is your time to shine! I am offering an extensive eyelash extension training this January. This 3 day course will include a full presentation and lecture on everything I know about extensions. It will also include in depth hands on training, a kit hand picked by yours truly, and a certification process. If you have been considering either sharpening your skills or are new to this skill, now is the time!

My name is Chelsie, I am a licensed instructor by the state of Idaho and have lots of teaching experience. I have been missing teaching so much, and have been overwhelmed with the amount of clientele I have inquiring about my services, so I have decided to share my knowledge.

This course is 3 full days and costs $1000, deposit is required to reserve your space.

Please drop your questions here, or click REGISTER HERE to sign up!

 

 

Taking The Plunge- Permanent Dreadlocks


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So you think you are ready to take the plunge…

I am ready to coach you through the process.

First of all, are all of your “people” ok with this… BOSS, mother, husband, father, wife, children, etc… Dreadlocks can conflict majorly with dresscode in some businesses and schools and may affect your job.

Length- the longer the better! Plan to lose 1/3 of your current, natural length as your dreads mature. There are many ways to get your dreadlocks going even if length may become an issue.

Color- Dreadlocks CAN be colored, however an extreme color change can be very difficult to achieve without damaging your locks. I typically suggest a lower maintenance color because your dreads are going to be a lot of work on their own.

Time- How much time do you put into your hair daily? Dreadlocks require a lot of time and love during their first year. All of the time you get to save on blow drying and curling is now spent separating congos and palm rolling.

Washing- Yes WE WASH. I recommend to my clients 4-7 days for shampooing and I only get my dreads wet when I shampoo. Dreads can dry very slowly, even with a blowdryer. My dreads can remain damp for most of the day even, so about a week is great for me. Washing more or less than every 4-7 days can be ok as long as your hair thickness and dreads permit it. You will get the routine once you get going and will be able to determine what your dreads like best.

Feeling Crazy?- Yes us dread heads are a bit obsessed with our dreads. They become part of you, like a device for measuring time based on the Instagram photos and your locks maturation process. It’s like when a parent uses their child’s age to share the approximate time of a memory. Like children, you have your favorites, the dreads that behave and cause little grief, and then there are the naughty ones that don’t play nice with the others. They are an organism all their own, congoing together an hour after you separate your entire scalp. Because of this your hands are always in them, making you look like a monkey, or a crazy person. Eventually they mature and mellow out and become very little work.

Like training a puppy, if you give them the attention they need in the beginning they will become an easy companion for a lifetime.

Commitment- Oh yes, I did say lifetime… Dreads are not for the faint hearted. Once you jump on this dread wagon, you are on it. Permanent Dreadlocks are a permanent decision, I tell every client that they must be cut out. There are people that have combed them out, but this way should not be relied upon as your hair will not be the same once you try and reverse a hair locking process. If you are unsure as to whether you are ready to commit to dreadlocks, I suggest trying one of my synthetic methods.

The Steady Dready method gives you basically a mock run of natural dreads…. It’s the easy and reversible way to see if you are up for permanent dreads. Once they are installed, in most cases, you can go about 4-12 weeks without maintenance. At each maintenance appointment, you can choose to continue maintaining your dreads as a synthetic extension, or begin to convert the bonds to a permanently extended Dreadlock. I believe this method gives you the ability to easily trial dreadlocks and transition into permanent dreads, if you choose too.

Still convinced you want them?- If you are still convinced you want them, you do not need extensions, a color change, and your length is good to go, here is how we get started…

I do not believe in using waxes, pomades, locking sprays, peppers, etc etc etc…. Blah blah blah.

I do productLESS dreading.

I use two products in my dreadlocks,

Shampoo (LOMA Organics)

Leave-in Conditioner (LOMA Organics) when they are dry and frizzy.

You will at least need to plan on purchasing shampoo for your dreads, if you are dreading with me, I recommend and stock LOMA Organics.

I like to dread organically. Letting your hair choose what dreading and maintenance method it likes best and allowing your hair to dread on its own… Because yes, it will dread if you let it.

Appointments for dread locking are determined and scheduled according to the needs of your dreads. Some clients have an easier time working on their own dreads and can manage quite well with little time in the salon, while others NEED to come in regularly to get their dreads going in a direction we want them to.

During our first appointment together, we will consult to make sure we are on the same page about the dreads you are trying to achieve. I will separate most and sometimes all of your hair into sections and encourage these sections of hair to become friends, by lightly dreading your hair with the method it responds to best. I will give you homework and we will rebook another appointment for maintenance.

Each appointment duration and maintenance frequency depends upon the client and the hair locking ability. Typically 2 hours every 6-8 weeks has been beneficial for clients that need more help with their dreadlocks.

If you’re ready to get started, give me a call or use our email contact form!

Hope this helps!

– Tia

xoxo

 

 

 

Discover Your Passion

imageI had an experience the other day that caused question to my live’s work and career. I have always dreamt of leaving a legacy of artistic expression and passion… Providing that in services to clients is how I always knew I would bless the world, but what I secretly dreamed of was passing it along; through education. I was always sure I couldn’t teach at a school because I wanted the persons being educated to receive a valuable and lasting experience.

Throughout the one year’s time it takes to get through cosmetology school, a lot of information is fed to you. You are taking in anatomy, emotional social work, geometry and all the while trying to maintatin Zen relations with your peers. Teaching in that setting seems hectic and controlled.

Something you will learn about me, I DON’T like rules.

Probably because I typically DO follow them… I like learning what I want to learn and doing things in the way that feels most right and authentic to me.

Learn all of the rules so that you can pick your favorites.

As a cosmetologist considering teaching other cosmetologists, I have been through the process… 9 years of it. I remember the school shenanigans, that one lady crying in the other girls chair, the bad cuts, the crazy clients, but most of all I rememeber why I started. For the passion and the art. I still feel excited when I pick up a little trick of the trade or have a new client squeals with excitement when I hand them the mirror.

I remember 🙂

The time I remember needing help the most were the following few years after beauty school. That point you reach when you have graduated, found a job, begun working in a salon, and bam… what now? Those were the points in my career I learned the most. I had the time open on my schedule, as my clientele was still growing, and I still had that craving for knowledge. I knew nothing!!

I have a vivid memory of standing in the dispensary of my first salon job gathering supplies for my appointment; a walk in perm. I stood facing my cupboard, staring at the boxes of perm solution… “OMG What solution do I use?! What color rod?! What order do these go in?!”

Anyone licensed is laughing right now because the irony is, we have all wrapped over 80 perms by this point. I knew what I was doing, but I was not feeling secure in my knowledge or in myself!

The owner of the salon was also in the back and could see that I was sweating, he asked if I needed any help. I blurted the ridiculous things going through my head, and he calmly said; “Ok. How resistant does her hair seem? Is it colored? What do you think you should use?”

I anwered to which he replied, “See? You do know what you’re doing.”

I was validated in his 30 seconds of questions. It felt nice. At that time in my fragile, building stages, I needed that support to feel strong and secure. I needed an experienced professional to tell me that I was doing good, not tell me what to do. He was my sounding board; I had a damn good hairstylist to bounce my creative and quirky ideas off of.

The most common complaint I hear in the beauty industry from graduated cosmetologist… In schools we are not taught to come to our own conclusions, we are taught to memorize and follow suit. Our instructors mixed our color formulas, grabbed our perm solutions, told us what steps to take…

See my issue with rules?

In their defense, it is such a small window of time to cram in all of the knowledge needed to pass boards. So we memorize and memorize… Which pushes us to experiment in the ladder years… At that point in my career, I needed my boss to bounce my experiments off of verbally, before trying them physically.

We chatted about A-lines, texturized cutting, color, lightening, decolorizing, toning, and styling products. He gave me his experienced opinion and I gave him my quirky concocted day dreams. He met me in the middle by validating my thought process but steered them to a more chemically or practically accurate concept.

I admire him.

I always hoped I would lead a salon team with that concept behind building stylists. What I did not fully know about myself is that I set very high expectations for others; because I set high expectations for myself.

Owning a salon and trying to teach motivation was not something I had in me. OBVIOUSLY… Cause it didn’t work like I had hoped. You can’t teach someone to be passionate, but you can teach them how to turn their passions into a concept and manifest it.

That is what I want to do.

I dream of leaving a legacy of passion to the other individuals in this industry just trying to make it. I hope to share my thoughts, experiments and creativity with others as we walk this treturous path to self discovery and fabulous hair. Cheers to all of you 😉

XOXO

-Tia

 

Hands on and Demonstration Education

NOW Offering ONE on ONE

Hands on and Demonstration Education

Tia is now offering one on one demonstrations and appointments for hands on education to licensed professionals. Ranging from razor haircutting, pixie cutting, blonding, color blending, vivid color and extensions both free strand and dreaded.

Reserve your appointment now to get educated!

Custom Synthetic Dread Sets

Interested in the dread style… but not quite ready for the comitment?

Single-Ended synthetic dread extensions may be the answer you are looking for!

Dreaded extensions can be attached to your hair for a temporary to semi permanent dread “fix”. Remove the extension binding to get your hair back to its previous, free-stranded state!

 

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Methods of application, price for install, and length of hair required will vary stylist to stylist… But I always say: 3 inches of hair minimum, $40 per hour for install (full head approx 4-5 hours).

Dread sets can be made in any length, most commonly requested in 18-24 inch lengths. You have the option of thick, skinny, or varying diameters, Color possibilities are pretty endless, and dreads can be ombre’d.

Full Head sets range from 50-60 single ended dreads @ $180-$240

Partial Head sets 30 single ended dreads @ $60-$100

*Accent Dread Sets*

5 single ended dreads fully decorated starting @ $25

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Watch my instagram for the sets I will be creating and sending out @thahairbiz

 

Salon Professionals: Working With VIVIDS

Interested in reading up on some of my tips on working with vivids, pastels, and deposit only colors?

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Here are a few answers to my most popular questions:

 

Q. What color line do you use?

A. Joico, Pravana, Iso with a little Fudge and Aloxxi. I use the line with the product that will serve my client best!

 

Q. Do you apply your fashion color formula on wet or dry hair?

A. This is my general rule: Hair is tinted when color fills the hair strand. If the hair strand is full of water, less color will be absorbed. If you are trying to achieve a nice translucent color, wet it is.

However, wet application is NOT how I acheive my translucent shades. Dimension is my true love; multi-tonal hair that reflects complimenting and contradicting hues is what challenges me, pushes me… Its much harder to get an even and predictable color application when the hair is wet, I typically dry the hair completly, section in 4 quardrents and apply my formulations. If I am applying color to wet hair, it is for slight tone adjustments.

 

Q. How do you adjust vivid color to acheive multi-tonal hues?

A. Start with a clear base when working with fashion shades, slowly stir in the desired pigment, checking depth by brushing the formula onto dry paper towel. I also love Titanium by Joico Color Intensitys as a cool base for some of my color concoctions.

 

Q. How do you acheive an even regrowth retouch without demarkation lines?

A. Double and triple toning. Sometimes double toning is required when you need to lift the regrowth and touch up the total color. Once the regrowth is lifted, you typically have a slightly yellow color butted up to your outgrown, faded color. Applying one mixture from scalp to ends is going to leave a “demarkation” line. The reason being- your base tones are different. You need to bring the freshly lightened hair to match the rest and then rinse, dry and apply your original formula to the entire head… OR you can formulate your regrowth color to process and match the end formulation in one application.

 

Keep the questions coming!

Hope this helps!

-Tia

 

 

Salon Professionals: Color Correction and Toning 101

For my Salon Pros… because, to everyone else this is going to sound like gibberish.

There are two types of color appointments in my world: color correction and color maintenance. If your client is asking you to alter the color of her hair, because she is either unhappy with it or in need of a change, you are performing a color correction. And if you are not?? Well then you should be.

When altering color even slightly, your “color correction brain” should be in full throttle. When a colorist asks me a question about toning, coloring, lightening, etc… the most common occurrence i am finding, is that they are literally not thinking about the color wheel.. At all!! Just because something has not gone devastatingly wrong, does not mean that you are free to pick the swatch of choice and dump the tube on your clients hair. 

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Have you ever utilized one of of these magical tools??

I sure hope so.

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A picture of a clients color I did a few weeks ago has been stirring up questions from inquiring stylists. The pic was featured on DyedDollies of Instagram and the question everyone is asking…

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Q. What is your silver formula?

A. There is no general rule when it comes to achieving ANY hair color! Especially fashion shades… and light to ultra light fashion shades at that. When I am approached with this question, my most common response is- “What’s the base? Level?”

I approach fashion shades, with again, a corrective frame of mind. If we are trying to achieve silver, my base level and tone is important because it will completely dictate the formula.

So…

How about a little step by step:

Want to know where we started, and how we acheived this slate to silver ombre’?

Sometime last year, I had a color referral from one of my more daring clients… This one wants white.

Our first appointment was spent weaving, oh so carefully, through her subtle balayage highlight. Lifting all of her hair from her natural level 7 to match the existing highlight.

At the sink:

Her hair lifted easily but was still yellow… especially if the client is asking for white.

Shampooed with violet shampoo, let sit 5 minutes and rinsed well.

I ALWAYS squeeze as much water out of the hair before toning in the sink, even towel drying slightly… I also lift the clients head out of the bowl so that the full head is covered evenly.

My formula:

Using pastel mixer as a base (this keeps the hair from over saturating or becoming dark) and v9… we ran this throughout her hair, scalp to ends. I let that process for 5 minutes, rinsed and conditioned.

It dried beautifully and I forgot to take a picture… oops.

We maintained her white hair for several months, and when it was time for a change, we snapped a before.

(8 weeks after her last retouch)

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A nice uber light beige canvas to begin our next hair painting project…

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The Concoction:

Formula A— 4n + 10 vol

Formula B— A7 + Activator

Formula C— Pastel Mixer + a tad of v9 + Activator

In four quadrant sections I painted Formula A throughout the entire base of the hair feathering each small section varying 1-2 inches from the scalp. Going back through each section saturating the ends with formula C and using Formula B as my “buffer”.

Tip- I work slowly and carefully, wiping my hands several times, to keep the ends free from misplaced dark patches. Cleanliness is important!

No color adjusting or toning required.. Just rinsed, conditioned and blown out.

When she retuned about 8 weeks later…

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She was seeing yellow throughout her hair and wanted to be more gray.

Here was my solution:

Formula A— Silver intense + 20 vol

Formula B— A7 + 20 vol

Formula C— 1/2 Clear + 1/2 Titanium + a dime size dot of violet

Now keep in mind she has 8 weeks of outgrowth (approx 3/4 of an inch). Starting with Formula A I foiled her entire base using a large slicing technique; only applying this formula from scalp to the dark color seam, feathering up to the white hair. Let process 30 minutes, rinse, blow dry.

Using four partings and clean sections, I applied Formula B over her original outgrowth and Formula C to the rest. Process 10 minutes, rinse, conditioned, trimmed and blown dry.

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Want the method behind my madness?

Most of her dark color was semi permanent and given how light her hair was when we applied the 4n, I knew the silver intense would tone and gently lift, while also breaking the base of the virgin hair… the intensifier obviously would not deposit much color to the outgrowth, turning it the perfect red/orange shade; easily drabbed out with ash.

When mixing formula C I added violet to help with the yellow tones the client was seeing. Just that dot of violet helped to brighten the silver, which in florescent lights, looks like this… and in natural light looks very gray.

Thanks Miss S. for all of the fun projects you bring my way! Looking forward to the next one 😉

-Tia

For My Dread Inquiring Minds…

Hello fellow dread enthusiasts!!

Or maybe you are just the curious sort and want to know what is up with this dreadlock ordeal…

To start with, the best information I can give the average joe about dreadlocks is: there are two major food groups… More specifically, there are SYNTHETIC dreadlocks and there are PERMANENT dreadlocks.

SYNTHETIC DREADLOCKS

Many people believe that a “synthetic dreadlock” is strictly speaking of the material used when creating a dreadlock style. This is only a half truth!

For me, the true meaning of a synthetic dreadlock is a dreadlock that is attached to your existing hair. This creates the look of “real” dreadlocks without the commitment. ALL of my synthetic methods can be removed from the hair and your existing hair will return to its original form.

I do typically use a synthetic fiber for my “synthetic” methods, as a fiber takes less time to dry, is lighter weight than human hair, and there is absolutely no risk for color fading or bleeding.

PERMANENT DREADLOCKS

This is what it sounds like.. A permanent decision.

Your hair is sectioned off and purposefully locked and tangled until it stops unlocking and untangling…

Many people have combed out permanent dreadlock methods… I do not suggest relying on this way out, as your hair will not be the same after undergoing such a brutal undoing.

Permanent dreadlocks CAN be extended once your locs are fully mature.

SYNTHETIC to PERMANENT METHOD

I call this the Steady Dready method.

Best suited for my impatient short haired friends.

We start with a Brazilian Knot in extension. The initial installation for this method is approx 5-8 hours. This method can be worn without any salon maintenance for up to 15 weeks. At this point, you HAVE A CHOICE! You can maintain these extensions as a synthetic dreadlock, keeping the option to go back to your normal hair… OR you can begin the dreading process! If you can go 15 weeks without removing the dreadlock extension, the base of your hair will begin to gently tangle. This is caused by natural hair shedding being trapped in the locked extension, and from twisting. This is nothing to worry about, as the base cannot dread too much in that time frame. IF YOU CHOOSE to take the next step to permanent locs, we would leave the tangled base and remove the extension; allowing the rest of the strand to naturally lock up. The extensions are rotated through your locs and overtime as the strands fully mature, your extension is permanently attached to your natural dreadlock. This method has many phases, some a little tougher than others. But you have the option of coming in for salon maintenance as little or as often as you would like, booking as many hours as you feel like you need to accomplish the maintenance necessary.. The process can be as fast or as slow as you would like, it only requires time in the salon. I believe I have created a way for short haired dreadie enthusiasts (like myself) to have long dreadlocks that look good MOST of the time. Below are some pictures of each phase so you can get an idea of what your dreadlocks will look like throughout their steady dready journey.

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Taken immediately after installation

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Taken one week after installation; you can see the the hair is beginning to loc up.

Her dreadlocks are currently about 2 months old and have not had any maintenance thus far.

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My dread journey looked a little like this… Don’t mind the selfies, please!

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Taken about one week after installation

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Taken about 2.5 months later (some of the free strands are beginning to loc up) pulling some of the front back helps to tame them when they are trying to have a wild day.

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Taken about 15 weeks later, most of the dreadlocks are permanently extended at this point.

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And the picture of completion.

From start to finish, this process was approximately 7 months.

My hair will remain like this until I choose to cut it off. The outgrowth will continue to loc up as it grows out and YES I can continue coloring my hair. I have the option of doing a little maintenance by pulling in free hairs surrounding the dreads, or locking in any imperfections.

Hope that was helpful!!

-Tia

 

Salon Professionals: Ivy Hues

Meet Ivy,

She is a beautiful college student with a little boho in her style, great taste in music, and an appreciation for icy lavenders and blue grays. In other words, we vibe and I dig her color appointments.

 

Where we began..

Ivy is naturally a level 8 with beige undertones; we gave her a nicely balanced and subtle balayage highlight  in our first color appointment together. The next time she returned for color it was to be a silvery, iridescent lavender.

This is her before (post balayage):

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The key to achieving a really pale hue, is time and PATIENCE. Sheer shades really show every line of demarkation (seams), drier patches, dark and light strands and spots. We want dimension, but keeping a light, barely-there-color, requires an even, seamless, canvas.  Having just highlighted her last appointment, this was tedious… to say the least.

I began by decolorizing her strands with a 30 vol lightener, careful not to go over previously lightened hair.  When it looked even and as light as can be, I shampooed with Scruples Platinum Shine Brightening Shampoo, and let it sit 5 minutes. This process brings her hair to a blue/gray which dries to a nice, icy/silver blonde.

And now the fun part.. COLORRRRR

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Tips when working with pastels and vivids:

*When adding pigment back into this ultra light hair, it is important to remember that it is going to suck up that pigment like no-body’s business and you are going to be rushing your client to the shampoo bowl if you are not careful! These colors look really dark but they are very very sheer!

*Always start with a clear or silver base (depending on desired tone/color) add very small drops of pigment until shade desired is achieved.

*Use a dry paper towel to test color on while mixing.

 

What do you think?

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Fast forward to next appointment…

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A Lavender dream..

Again Ivy returned with a new look in mind; darker so that it lasted longer.

Her outgrowth was  approx an inch and a half and once lightened, shampooed and blown dry, did not match her existing, all over silvery blonde. I mixed one formula more violet based for the outgrowth and two more formulas for the ends. Applying according to which areas needed, which formulas to achieve an even tone. Your knowledge of color correction using the color wheel, will greatly serve you in this department.

Applying a single, all-over color, on an uneven base is a recipe for banding and less than satisfactory fading.

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And the latest and greatest..

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Ultraviolet & Blue Steel…

We were going for more blue, but she wasn’t quite ready to ditch those violet vibes.

Thank you for the fun and inspiration Miss Ivy, heads like yours make my world go ’round.

-Tia

 

SALON PROFESSIONALS

For the stylists who want to know:

Color lights me up, the challenge and process excites me and the reward comes when your work turns out better than either of you imagined it could. That is passion, art, creativity, and it drives me.

The appreciation for my love of color is apparent as most of my family and friends are wearing vibrant shades themselves. Due to our vivid gathering, we get questioned a lot about my techniques, products and tips. I was always very reluctant to share those things with fellow stylists as I felt it would create direct competition with my business… “Trade secrets” everyone says!

My default response to inquisitive young stylists is always the same; “Come work in my salon, and I will teach you everything I know.”

This response was in hopes that a fresh face would aspire to work by my side. Sharing success in one unified space, learning from one another and growing together. The conversation that transpired after this lost message was never as pleasant as I had hoped. The inquiring face always turned to a gasping one and then the defense came up followed by more questions in a less than friendly tone and snappy remarks. WHEW…. Not an encounter I wanted to have on a Sunday afternoon at TJ Maxx.

So here it goes…

I have decided to share MY “trade secrets” in hopes that someone will be inspired.

And in hopes that you will all stop harrassing my family and friends 🙂

haha JK!

But really…

-Tia